Saturday, 19 October 2013

THE CLEANSING ROUTINE

Why do we cleanse? How should we cleanse? What is cleansing?

When asked what they use for their cleansing routine I used to get clients who would reply "ooh I don't cleanse, which is bad I know but I don't get time" than when I ask how about water? Do you wash with just water in the morning? (I was adamant they must do something, they can't be that busy!) They would go into how they use a facial wash or soap bar sometimes even a face scrub...... Well is that not cleansing? I don't believe cleansing is about using a fancy cleanser with cotton pads and fancy cloths. Cleansing is to clean the skin with whatever you use as long as you are using something to clean your face I want to know! Than I will go onto whether it's the right way. So coming back to what is cleansing - in my opinion it's a form of cleaning your skin whether it be a face wash, a wipe, just water or a fancy cleanser.
If you don't get time to do it separately, just do it in the shower, as long as you do it everyday and you do not use your shower gel! Shower gels will strip the oils out of your skin. Just use water if you had to.

 If you don't have time to do a fancy cleanse morning and night, I recommend the evening is more important as you've been out and attacked by various environmental factors so do it at night - its better! Unless you work nights than do it in the morning!
Cleansing helps to dissolve makeup, dirt and anything you've picked up from the wonderful streets outside. If you don't believe me watch the water when you rinse your face, especially if you've been on the wonderful London Underground!

What's a good way to cleanse?

I personally prefer and have seen better results on clients who use water with a face wash/foam/milk. I am a big believer in using water. I know news has it if you have sensitive skin don't use water too often blah blah. I have sensitive skin and unless I'm having an attack of raw red looking skin, I will always use water. I think the main thing is what you wash with. There are cleansers out there that are a little harsh especially for certain skin types. The most important thing is using the right product for your skin type. If you don't know your skin type, go and get a free consultation somewhere it's so worth it. Otherwise I will do a post on identifying your skin type.
I hate (I don't like to use the word hate it's quite harsh but I will) people who say "my skin is realllly sensitive I can't use anything on my skin" So I'm like okay so what do you use on your skin at the moment? 'Well I rub it with harsh acids every morning and night than use makeup full of the worst possible colouring and chemicals on the market' - really? Your skin is sensitive? Who the hell told you your skin is sensitive? Or is it sensitive because of all that. I blame the bad articles and bad therapists they see who don't have a clue what they are doing - don't even get me started on them!
Anyway back to cleansing - if you haven't got time or money for a full skincare routine I recommend you use a flannel and water or use a basic face wash from your local supermarket. I believe your moisturiser should be what you spend your money on - not your cleanser - after all it's only getting washed off. However, if your lucky enough to be able to spend a little on yourself buy a good cleanser (by cleanser I mean face wash, milk or foam) whatever suits your skin type. Personally I still don't believe in spending loads on a cleanser. I think an average priced one is fine. Unless you like a bit of luxury in your life in which case go for it!

Different types of cleansers

Foam /wash
A foaming cleanser or face wash gives you a good lather and is great for those who like a good squeaky-clean soap like feel to wash with. It's better for oilier tougher skin types. Although there are options available for the more sensitive skins too. Also great to use in the shower. Remember to keep away from ingredients which are bound to dry out your skin. Sodium Lauryl sulphate gives a lovely lather but will strip your skin of natural oils. Go for options with Sodium Laureth sulphate and soap free formulations. (The difference is explained in a post yet to come).
Always do a double rinse to make sure there is no product left on skin as this can cause irritation.

                                                      Cleansing milks
Milks are excellent for dry/dehydrated skin. Milks can be rinsed off or wiped with cotton pads. I would recommend always wash off as long as your skin is not sensitive to water. Milks are also great as makeup removers especially mascara. Remember not all milks can be just wiped away. Some require a rinse so always read the label. Massage the product into your skin using quick movements to help dissolve any makeup.

Soap

Soap is the traditional way of washing the face or body. It has been used for many years and is still a firm favourite of many skincare virgins. However, soap can be very drying. Although it can give you a lovely clean feel - it will strip your skin of natural oils. Oils that we need to keep our skin soft and supple. If your skin is stripped of natural oils it will make excess oil - seriously it will make more oil that you don't need because it thinks you will strip the hell out of it again! Like I said your skin is very intelligent. So for those with spotty skin although it gives you a wonderful clean oil free feel after using a bar of soap, you will notice that you will become oilier and may possibly get spottier if you keep at it. Use a soap free face wash or foam instead. If your skin feels tight after a cleanse you have stripped its natural oils. Stay clear of soap, be it a solid bar or liquid. I know our mums and grans used nothing but soap and they have lovely skin - however, think of the moisturisers they would use after it, from cold creams to thick heavy creams. Secondly our climate now is far worse than what it was many years ago. With harsh winters and blazing UV rays in the summer our skin does not need another think to fight with!


Exfoliating cleansers
These are face washes with a slight grain which are suitable for daily use. I'm not a great believer in a two in one. I feel these washes don't give you an abrasive enough exfoliation and it's too much to do an extra scrub along with it. I personally prefer and can speak from experience of seeing people use different types of products that having a separate exfoliator and cleanser is more effective than a two in one. This allows your skin to heal if need be and than you can have a good scrub once or twice a week depending on your skin type. Either way if you do go for one chose a soap free option and if your skin can take it do an extra facial scrub once in two weeks on which day don't use the two in one.

Make up removers
Makeup removers are excellent for heavy makeup wearers. If you wear light makeup on a daily basis I feel a good double cleanse is sufficient. However, for those who wear a heavier foundation and eye makeup it is better to remove as much as possible and than follow with a cleanser. Wipes are fine to use as are cleansing milks to help dissolve the make up. Always follow with a cleanse.

Wipes
I do love wipes! For everything.... Wipe your hands, the table, your clothes, your phone and even your skin! (Obviously not the same wipe...) Please do yourself a favour and don't just wipe off your makeup and call it a day. Its fine if you are in a hurry and your only option is a wipe or to fall asleep in makeup, however, the number of ladies I see that use wipes as their only form of cleansing surprises me. I know we don't have time and I know we have better things to do. If that's the case skip the wipes and wash your face. You will thank me! Most wipes contain tons of chemicals and are wet towels sitting in a box or packet - perfect for bacterial growth. The harsh rubbing on the skin can also cause irritation and sensitivity so be aware.

Toners
Toners are great to remove any left over residue from your cleanser and also help to close up and tighten your pores. Always chose an alcohol free toner as alcohol is very drying on the skin. Natural options to use are rose water for dry skin and orange flower water for oily skin. Pour neat into a spritz bottle or use on cotton pads and wipe away. Can also be used as an eye makeup removers and cooling sprays in the summer.


I've tried to cover some of the basic products available on the market, however, I will go into detail and maybe we can look at particular products in the future. If you have any questions on your product or skin type feel free to ask.

Happy cleansing...... and remember if your skin feels tight after you wash, you have stripped your natural oils - try a different product.

2 comments: