Sunday, 30 March 2014

Skin Education by Yasmin...... : LET'S TALK SUN....

Skin Education by Yasmin...... : LET'S TALK SUN....: THE SUN  With the fabulous sun making an appearance I see everyone running to the parks to get the healthy glow we all desire. What&#39...

LET'S TALK SUN....

THE SUN 

With the fabulous sun making an appearance I see everyone running to the parks to get the healthy glow we all desire. What's behind this healthy glow? Is it really worth all the cell damage it causes! Or is vanity far more important?

Let's take a look at the SUN......

As we know without argument the sun gives us a feel good factor. With all the endorphin's running through our body with a glimpse of the sun no matter we all smile and run around full of beans! 
That being said let's concentrate why we need the sun? Let's face it we need the sun for life. The sun is responsible for growth and life of all living organisms. It emits a range of rays which we know as the spectrum. In terms of the skin all we will concentrate on is the UV rays.
There are three different types of UV rays. UVA, UVB and UVC. We need not worry about the dangerous UVC rays as these are absorbed by the ozone layer. Here we will concentrate on the UVB and UVA rays. 

UVA....
So the UVA Ray is the next powerful ray after UVC. This is a longer ray and can penetrate deep into the lower layers of the skin. It causes premature ageing, cell damage and can make melanin (tan) darker. Damage caused by a UVA Ray is usually long term. It can also come through clouds and glass and suppresses your immune system.
Remember a product with an SPF (sun protection factor) will not protect you from UVA rays. The SPF number only protects against the UVB. Therefore when buying products they must state 'broad spectrum protection' and 'UVA protection'.

UVB....
UVB Ray is a shorter ray and usually stronger on a sunny day. It causes burning, redness and some DNA damage. it stimulates the production of melanin which is why we get a tan. However, this melanin production is a form of protection by the body from the rays. So what we think is a healthy glow is in fact the body's defense system against damage! 

VITAMIN D....
I hear you say 'well I need vitamin D from the sun! I need some sun and my doctors saying I'm deficient!' Well yes you are right there is no argument in that; we all need vitamin D for a healthy immune system and to help our body use calcium which in return will keep our bones healthy! Our main source of vitamin D is from the sun - unless obviously if you're taking supplements. Here's how it works....
To get enough vitamin D parts of our skin needs to be exposed to the sun. Once the skin is exposed to the rays - in particular the UVB - it produces it own vitamin D. On a winters day you can probably get away with exposing the skin to the sun a little longer. This is because some of the UVB rays are blocked by the clouds and also as its cold you are less likely to have exposed skin areas. Generally speaking 'around 10 mins of sun exposure on bare skin will allow your body to produce enough vitamin D for 3-4 days'. 

As you can see, you don't need much exposure to the sun in order to get the right amount of vitamin D. However, over exposure will definitely cause damage to the skin which can result in conditions such as skin cancers. The way I see it is if I'm deficient in vitamin D luckily I am able to take a supplement, but if i damage the DNA in my skin and increase the risk of skin cancer - well I cant take a pill for that so I know where my priorities lie. 

PROTECTING YOUR SKIN

Okay so lets talk about how sun protection works. There are two main forms of protection, Physical and Chemical. 
Physical protection is when the ray which reaches your skin is reflected back. Its usually ingredients like Titanium oxide and Zinc oxide. These are usually white powders, traditionally plain zinc and titanium oxides where used in sun protection which is why the products where white and chalky looking. today you will find these in mineral makeups and sun lotions with a tint. Although most sun products do still contain these ingredients in a small quantity in order to avoid the powdery look.
Chemical protection is a chemical which sits on the skin and absorbs the suns rays. Once absorbed they are stabilized in order to stop them from penetrating the skin deeper and causing damage. Over time they are than released from the skin as radiation. These include Octycrylene, homosalate, mexoryl, tinosorbs and many others. 

The Sun Protection Factor
The sun protection factor is the time you can stay out in the sun without getting burnt or causing damage. The best way to work this out is multiply the SPF by how long you can usually stay out in the sun before turning red or burning. This will give you the time you can stay out in the sun with the application of the product. 
For example:
 If you can usually stay out in the sun for 10 minutes before getting burnt and you have brought an SPF 15, the maths will be: 10 X 15 = 150, so you can stay out in the sun for 150 minutes before you need to reapply. So without further explanation - the higher the SPF the better the protection! 
Also keep in mind you will need to reapply when you come in contact with water, if you are sweating a lot and depending on how well or how much you apply.  Don't forget your ears, backs of legs/neck and your back. 
Lastly remember the SPF does not protect from UVA rays only UVB rays. So you must make sure you buy a product which states UVA protection as its more harmful to the skin. 

I hope I have explained some basics about the sun. Please feel free to email me your questions and I will get back to you personally. Alternatively leave a comment....

Enjoy the beginning of the sun, stay safe, keep protected and if you want a tan..... fake it!!!




Monday, 24 February 2014

Whats your skin type?

Apologies for the delay in my next post. I have had one mad February!
Finally as promised I am going to share some info about your skin types and conditions. 
There is always a confusion about what type of skin people have, especially when it comes to choosing products - like the ones that state they are for "normal" skin! What is meant by "normal" is there such thing? I guess it depends on what you define as "normal". 
As mentioned previously there is a difference between a skin TYPE and skin CONDITION. A skin type is something you are born with. It's usually genetic so your mother/father will have it and their parents and so on. A skin condition is something you have as a result of environmental factors. Here's a list of some of the differences:

Skin type:
"Normal" (no such thing in my books- but the word exists!)
Oily
Dry
Combination
Mature
Acne
Sensitive (to particular ingredient)

Skin conditions:
Dehydrated
Pigmented
Acne
Sun damage
Premature ageing
Sensitised 

You may have noticed I have repeated some problems as both skin type and skin condition. This is basically because it can be both. For example you may have an allergy to a particular ingredient which would make it your skin type. However, using incorrect products for your skin type can make your skin sensitive in which case it is just a condition and you did not have it to begin with. 

Identifying your skins needs:

The best way to actually identify your skin type or condition would in fact be to go and have a skin consultation. However, I know it's not always possible and I know sometimes bad practice from consultants means having the wrong diagnosis - so to speak. So what's the best way to to find out yourself?

Dry skin:
Flaky 
Patches of dryness
Coarse
Needs oil 
This is quite an easy skin type to deal with. If its extreme flakiness with redness - by that I mean your top is covered in dry skin an hour after you have left home - than it may be worth checking with your skin specialist or doctor in case you have a condition such as eczema. Generally speaking dry skin can use oil without it blocking your pores. This does not mean you can pick up any oil. A good quality pure skin oil will be very effective at combating dry flaky skin. You can also buy oil based products, stay clear of oil free products. I'm hoping your getting the gist here! If you want to do your own.....

A good quality oil such as Sweet Almond, Grapeseed or Jojoba oil
Mixed with a few drops of Rose essential oil

I would recommend using this after your cleansing routine in the evening. 

Dehydrated:
Tight
Fine lines
Itchy
Often feels extremely dry/tight when washing with water
Can be rough feeling
Areas of redness possible 
Needs water not oil! 
The first thing people do when their skin is feeling tight is buy a thick rich moisturiser usually for dry skin conditions. This results in too much oil on the skin and the symptom of dryness still there. It might feel nice temporarily, but it will not fix the problem. As a result you may actually make matters worse because remember you do not need oil you need water and by putting in too much oil you may cause your skin to break out in spots. The idea here is to buy water based products - look for Aqua as the first ingredient in your face creams. Add a serum to your routine and drink plenty of water. 
And please remember..... if your skin is feeling tight do not assume that you need a thick rich moisturiser, this will not sink in. You need a light moisturiser such as a fluid so that it can sink in. Imagine your skin as a sponge and in this case with no water in it - what would sink in better a dollop of a thick rich moisturiser or a lighter cream? 

Oily:
Genetically oily skin is one which has a lovely shine before you've got to work!! Literally. If you have a shine towards the end of your day, that may be more of a skin condition than type.
Prone to breakouts
Less likely to have premature ageing lines
if you are generally an oily skin type you can still be dehydrated. This is because you may have enough oil in the skin but not enough water. I know its confusing but just remember dry needs oil, dehydrated needs water. 
Once again you will need a water based moisturiser which is oil free. There are amazing products out on the shelves which can help balance your oil production and stop you from looking shiny too. Do not use bars of soap to wash away the oils. You can actually make your skin oilier by removing too much natural oil from your skin. Which in fact is why some people are dehydrated as well as oily. Toners are also important for oily skins. Look for words such as 'oil free', 'sebum regulating', 'balancing' and 'water based' products. 

Sensitive/sensitised:
Prone to redness
Easily irritated
Broken skin
Usually stings when applying products
This can be confusing, being naturally sensitive will just mean you have a more delicate skin which may have an allergy of some form. This type of skin is usually fine as long as you avoid the ingredient you are allergic too. SENSITISED skin - which most of us living in London will have, thanks to our wonderful whether all year round and our lifestyles - This can be fixed! It may be difficult and it may need patience but it is not normal and it needs to be dealt with as soon as possible. Sensitised skin can usually be a result of a 'bad' skincare routine or product, Health problems or and the environment. You can have any type of skin or any other skin condition and still be sensitive. The idea is to find the cause and get rid of it - easier said than done. If for example you are using skin care products which are reacting than obviously you need to stop. If you are not sure, stop using all the products, use a basic cleanser for sensitive skin and a sun protection on your skin until it clears up, than introduce one product at a time. I would recommend use each product 3-5 times before adding the next one. Now if you have a health concern and you are taking medication than again obviously you can not stop taking any medication just for the sake of your skin looking nicer! after all health comes first. However, it is important to remember that it is not always the medication causing the problem - the medication is probably  just making your skin a little less tolerant to environmental factors. So for example you may need to use a higher sun factor to protect it in the sun, you may need to address the dryness or dehydration and commonly your skin does not regenerate sufficiently resulting in a duller/dryer skin complexion and again you just need to address that.  Use a facial scrub more often, moisturise your skin more etc. Its all about giving your skin what it needs.
Please remember if you do have a serious health concern check with your health practitioner before using any advanced skin products. An example would be if you are on roaccutane which is commonly used for acne - you should not really be using any intense exfoliating products. 
   
Pigmentation:
Uneven skin colour
Areas of dark pigment or areas of light patches
Age spots
Scarring (colour difference)
Will go in to this another time.

Acne:
Acne is a whole new book in itself. The science behind acne is so extensive that I would probably need a whole new blog not just a page on the different kinds of acne, why you may have it and how to treat it. I would like to cover acne separately. However, for the purpose of this blog its important to remember that having a few spots does not mean you have acne. Acne is a serious skin condition which effects peoples life's in many ways. you can have acne breakouts typically on face, neck, chest and back. it can be caused by a number of factors and is usually a blockage of pores by an over production of sebum (oil) in the skin. yes you have guessed it - you can still be dehydrated and have acne. This is actually very common. most people with acne or even just spots tent to think they have too much oil and stripping the oils will help. In fact using harsh cleansing and soaps to remove the oils will cause the skin to first lose essential hydration causing it to became dehydrated and secondly remove natural oils which are needed - as a result your skin will produce more oil! trust me it will do this because skin science is amazing!

So I'm hoping you have a rough idea of the different skin types. I don't want to make the post too long so I will leave it here for now, with the promise to write more very soon.
Just remember treat your skin with respect don't use any harsh products on it. Do your research - if in doubt ask me or your skincare professional. For the young girls out there with perfect skin....look after it as it will catch up with you. So the hair spray you spray over your face to try and set the makeup may keep your makeup on for the night but trust me it will get you back not so far in the future. (and for those of thinking 'hairspray? what?' trust me that's what the girls are doing!). Happy women's day 8th March - Go and buy yourself or a lady who means a lot a lovely present, preferably some skincare products -  They/you deserve it! 

Friday, 3 January 2014

Wishing you all a beautiful new year!

Firstly I’d like to wish everyone of you a successful, eventful and of course a beautiful new year. What did you all get up to? I had a fantastic evening with some wonderful friends, a good laugh is always guaranteed when with friends. You know who you all are! Looking forward to the next catch up. 
Getting back to business with great motivation and positivity is the best part of a new year. So lets get straight into it.
 I know you must all be sick of the different diets you can and can’t do! I promise I won’t talk about diets, just how to pamper yourself!!

Attempted the cookie Xmas tree,
with the help of my beautiful niece :)
Overindulged over Xmas?
Your body has its own detox system which works all year round to rid your body of harmful chemicals known as toxins. It uses the Digestive system, Urinary tract, Lungs, Skin, and your liver to help get rid of any harmful toxins quickly and efficiently.  However, doing your own detox will give a boost to your organs and help you start the year with a fresher and healthier frame of mind, not forgetting a healthier glow to your tired looking skin. 
Firstly get yourself a good body brush in the sales and get started on your body brushing regime. This will not only help remove toxins it also helps to provide your skin with vital nutrients to help relax restore and destress an overworked body.  Body brushing works on stimulating the lymph and blood system to help flush toxins out of the body. It also helps to reduce cellulite. Yes it works! Buy yourself a good body brush which has bristles that have a slightly rough feel. Brush on dry skin in an upwards motion always moving towards your heart. Follow with a luxury shower using up all those shower bits you got over Christmas. finally don't forget the all important moisturising - Again massage the moisturiser in an upward direction always working towards the heart and don't be afraid to use a little pressure to help move those stubborn fatty bits (even if you don't have any). 

· Add lemon to a glass of warm water and take every morning for a week for a quick liver detox.
· Eating two squares of dark chocolate daily is good for you! Chocolate which contains 70% or more cocoa solids contains antioxidants  which can protect you from heart disease.
· When you feel hungry before meal times, try drinking some water first, as most of the time we mistake thirst for hunger, especially on colder days.
· Drink iced water as your body will use 100 calories just to heat the water to body temperature.
· Drinking 5 cups of green tea a day will boost your metabolism as well as flush out toxins. But remember to drink water too, as not enough water will result in your toxins floating around your body looking to be flushed, which can result in headaches and nausea.

 (please note I am not a medical professional so please check with your doctor if you have any medical problems before following any of my health tips).

As the winter has now officially kicked in here in London, I don't know about you but my skin has had enough and refuses to like anything I use on it! I finally have managed to control my Rosacea with some products I got to sample - the fact that I'm off from work may have something to do with it, I will soon find out! I did mention to talk about skin types just before Xmas and I promise I will. I just don't want to bore you with a long post so I will sign off for now. But please remember to keep emailing me and commenting. I can mention any skin concerns in my following posts. For now sit back soak in the new year and let your body and skin detox a little so we can make a fresh start!
Enjoy the sales......